Known higher mileage issues

Hey all,

Awd tl owner here. My one owner car has 182000 ks on it now, and I'm starting to experience a few minor issues as it ages. The car has always been serviced every six months, with bits replaced as soon as needed. It's general condition is good and it is garaged and well cared for cosmetically and mechanically.

Looking for some sort of idea of what to experience with regards common mechanical issues. In the last 12 months it's needed a cv boot, new roof lining, and recently a new thermo fan. The engine still has good compression and does not burn oil. I put this down to the regular oil changes.

Timing belt was done for the second time at 150. Also did the water pump.

What has been other peoples experiences with their cars as they age? I'd prefer to keep the car for at least another 3-5 years, and so need an idea of what to budget for over time. Not really handy with tools, so won't be doing any of the work myself.

cheers,

I did the 315,xxxx service recently on our TW II VRX AWD.

I did get Mal to do a 3.8 upgrade for the 270,xxx service, but all the ancilliaries are still the same, and it burns more oil than the 3.5 did, which was more or less nil.

Other than the 3.8, I've done nothing more than routine servicing, and I doubt it'd be any different if I'd kept the original 3.5. The 3.8 is a nice upgrade though, better fuel consumption and noticably improved performance.

Ive had mine since about 230k its on 294k now and the only things ive needed to change apart from the servicing its the rear shocks, drivers cv boots, front rocker gasket and the drivers side engine mount apart from that its been just basic maintainance

-If it's an auto then the gearbox will be letting go soon (possibly). The wave spring inside the gearbox gives out.

-The heater core (if not done already) will likely be letting go soon. This may cause a little coolant leak onto the front passenger footwell, it may not. I had a 2004 TW VRX Manual and never did it

-Radiator (if original) has done countless heat cycles and will likely be needing replacing soon.

-As the kms climb, more wear and tear on normal pieces such as the ignition barrel, key, starter motor, alternator. This could be class as consumables depending on how you look at it

-Most of the time the belts are only changed and not the pulleys. So the more kms, the more wear & tear on the pulleys

Thanks for the input, guys. For the most part, it all sounds like mostly predictable stuff. Things like transmissions going bang do worry me. But other stuff like alternators and starter motors are just consumables, in my view.

The springs and shocks I had replaced years ago, after the rear began sagging. They are possibly about ready to be done again, but I'm not keen on tipping that much money into it. Pads and rotors have been done; engine mount has been replaced; a bump stop kit went on. The list continues.

It's our only car, so it's a balance of keeping it mechanically viable while not overspending.

thanks again,

A full trans flush, more often than recommended is a good thing!

In 14 years and 500,000km, going off memory and my ride thread, wear and tear items outside the usual (oil, filters, tyres etc), I've replaced or fixed:

Front struts including mounting plates
Rear shocks
Rear plugs
Brake rotors
Centre exhaust
Alternator
Blower fan motor
Central locking motor in driver's door
Indicator wand wouldn't engage left so pulled apart and cleaned
Foam inside air vents disintegrates
Few blown bulbs behind the dash (D in instrument cluster, A/C switch etc).

Engine, auto trans, belts, radiator, brakes all original and working fine.

I think the tl/tw autos have a revised spring in them havent really heard much about them blowing. Keeping ontop of fluid changes and adding a oil cooler wouldnt go astray. Did it myseld because i tow abit with mine jusy as a piece of mind thing less chance of it blowing if the temp is kept at a good level

I just remembered that I changed out the window control switch panel, a few were dicky.

Just encountered a known issue at 195,000 as the transmission has let go. Next to no warning and just three months after a fluid change with no indication of trouble or any metal flecks in the drained fluid.

Quote to rebuild original was over $3500, so have sourced a low mileage replacement.

An expensive week.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BergDonk

I did the 315,xxxx service recently on our TW II VRX AWD.

I did get Mal to do a 3.8 upgrade for the 270,xxx service, but all the ancilliaries are still the same, and it burns more oil than the 3.5 did, which was more or less nil.

Other than the 3.8, I've done nothing more than routine servicing, and I doubt it'd be any different if I'd kept the original 3.5. The 3.8 is a nice upgrade though, better fuel consumption and noticably improved performance.

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Thanks for the engine suggestion. If I've still got the car when it's due for a timing let, it's a worthwhile changeover. Especially since Mal's 3.8s come with a new timing belt and are ready to bolt in.

Spent 4 hours yesterday washing, polishing and detailing. Feeling the effects but the car looks a lot better. Will try and put up some pics later.

After some thought and much driving of possible alternatives, I put the car in for a full gearbox recondition last week. Just got it back last night, and it is so much better.

The process of deciding was difficult, and included many detractors insisting that $20,000 on depreciation is a better option than repairing an old Magna. Even looked around at other Magnas for sale, and very few of them were worth considering.

So, we had done:
- Gasket seal and ring kit
- Friction module
- Different, strengthened wave spring
- Reduction band
- Heavy duty lr damper plate
- Solenoid set
- Bearing kit
- Pump bush
- Planetary carrier
- Filter
- Reco torque converter.

Took it for a drive last night, and the action reminds me of when it was new, except that odometer now reads 197,000kms.

The current plan is to keep the old girl, which will be reassessed in two (or maybe three) years when the next timing belt is due.

The mechanic who did the work said he drove it home overnight to check the action of the gearbox, and couldn't believe how good it is to drive. It is so disappointing that most people think 'sh1tboxes' when they hear Magna. Maintained properly, they are great cars.

Cheers to all,

How much did the reconditioned transmission cost all up?

What sort of warranty is being offered?

The warranty is two years or 40,000kms.

Have pmd the price.

Work mates think I'm nuts spending on an old Magna. Some days Im tempted to agree with them

Follow-up check on the auto transmission showed all ok.

Car was due for a service which was done today. Also done brake fluid and air filter.

Car will need four new tyres in the next little while so hoping for a good three for the price of four special early next year.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by leadfoot6

How much did the reconditioned transmission cost all up?

What sort of warranty is being offered?

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by an observer

The warranty is two years or 40,000kms.

Have pmd the price.

Work mates think I'm nuts spending on an old Magna. Some days Im tempted to agree with them

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Hi,

Thanks for the PM with price/warranty included.

The price is a little above average but not unreasonably so, especially with the good warranty offered.

You have said it drives well now.

The money spent now is certainly not wasted if it will give you 5 years peace of mind which I think it will.

If/when mine goes, I would spend the amount you did with a transmission specialist in Sydney who I KNOW does excellent work.

https://www.dsjonesautomatics.com.au/

It's up to you, but you might consider letting others know the cost, which will be useful information for forum members.

6 months or so ago, a new forum member looking for advice offloaded his relatively low km otherwise very well looked after TL?? because he did not want to spend sensible money on reconditioning a failed transmission due to broken wave spring IIRC.

I think he made a poor decision.

You have made the right one.

The car does drive like new. Had the new steering wheel fitted during servicing yesterday, so visually fresher from drivers seat.

When deciding to get the trans fixed, I looked at newer cars and their upfront depreciation cost. That was key in spending $3500 to recondition the trans.

Yes, it is a big expense on an old car so hope to get at least 5 years back on that investment. Its a somewhat different mindset to the norm but as you say, I think the cars themselves can certainly go the distance and are worth fixing.

Car was fixed by Dave and the guys here:

https://firstclassautomatics.com.au/

They operate out of Midas at Strathpine. No hesitation in recommending them.

https://www.midas.com.au/strathpine

I think you made the right decision my transmission is not far from dying. I was quoted $4000 for the rebuild and I have every intention of going ahead with it to me it's worth every cent. I say keep as many on the road as we can because they are greatly underrated and they are starting to become rare to see on the road.

If my 2004 TL AWD lasts another 6 years that will be 20 years old.

I will be happy enough with that.

My, Australian made of course, 1990 Nissan Skyline wagon lasted until it was 25 years old without any major headaches.

I spent plenty of time giving it TLC, as it was a trade-in that my boss thought needed too much work to make it resellable at the car yard I used to work at, but not a huge amount of money.

He gave it to me for free.

It ended up being superb to drive for a car of that age.

My major concern is that someone will run into me(leading to a "write off" situation), not that my car won't last the distance.

I just can't think of anything else that can match my cars comfort, ability, stability, and nearly perfect reliability for sensible(affordable for me) money.

Went out for a drive on the weekend. Had a cracking time, replaced the windscreen yesterday after copping a big stone from opposing traffic on a dirt road. (poor roads being another reason to stick with the 16"s, as I had been contemplating a move to 17"s with all four tyres due for replacement sometime next year)

Then a window jammed in the down position. Wifey took it to the nearby auto elec who diagnosed it as just dust and grunge, said it was a common issue. Thankfully a cleanup and check of the mchanism seems to have fixed the issue.

Would love a leather interior if anyone is selling door trims and seats for a reasonable price. ...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by an observer

Went out for a drive on the weekend. Had a cracking time, replaced the windscreen yesterday after copping a big stone from opposing traffic on a dirt road. (poor roads being another reason to stick with the 16"s, as I had been contemplating a move to 17"s with all four tyres due for replacement sometime next year)

Then a window jammed in the down position. Wifey took it to the nearby auto elec who diagnosed it as just dust and grunge, said it was a common issue. Thankfully a cleanup and check of the mchanism seems to have fixed the issue.

Would love a leather interior if anyone is selling door trims and seats for a reasonable price. ...

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What exactly needed to be cleaned?

Was it the centre console switch block(easily removed on a TL/TW), or the actual mechanism inside the door(not so easy)?

It was just the contacts, in the centre console. Im told he took the dor trim off to check the mechanism but the contacts appear to have been the issue.

Thanks for that, and knowing that the easier procedure being the cure in this instance is reassuring.

Note: My time stamp/out of post sequence "issue" that I had been experiencing has not reappeared with this post.

Hopefully, it will stay that way.

Hi Leadfoot, have you done your 380 swap? It can rekindle interest in the whole car. Regards.

The advice was that its a common problem. He was surprised we'd gone this long before experiencing it. My obsession with keeping it clean probably helps.

According to him, most people trash their cars and the interior electricals suffer accordingly.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by whiteawd

Hi Leadfoot, have you done your 380 swap? It can rekindle interest in the whole car. Regards.

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I am travelling to Melbourne at the end of next week for the swap to begin the following Monday - 19/11.

Other work is being done as well, primarily having most of the rear suspension bushes/rear wheel bearings/Sachs rear shocks replaced with Koni Red, and should be finished before the end of the week.

Please keep us posted. Looking forward to hearing how it goes.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by leadfoot6

I am travelling to Melbourne at the end of next week for the swap to begin the following Monday - 19/11.

Other work is being done as well, primarily having most of the rear suspension bushes/rear wheel bearings/Sachs rear shocks replaced with Koni Red, and should be finished before the end of the week.

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Best wishes. I enjoy this forum. Quite a change from the HSV forum when someone has spent 20k in three posts.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TWaGn

Ive had mine since about 230k its on 294k now and the only things ive needed to change apart from the servicing its the rear shocks, drivers cv boots, front rocker gasket and the drivers side engine mount apart from that its been just basic maintainance

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just wondering what you experienced to make you replace the cv boots and engine mounts. tia

Quote:

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Originally Posted by whiteawd

Hi Leadfoot, have you done your 380 swap? It can rekindle interest in the whole car. Regards.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by an observer

Please keep us posted. Looking forward to hearing how it goes.

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The 380 conversion job was completed on Thursday PM @ Mits-Fix, and I am now home again(Kiama NSW).

All work completed was done perfectly, although I did overload them with a very big list of things to do that resulted in a few minor items not finished in time.

I will catch up with these items later.

The rear suspension received significant renewal/replacement work, including Koni Red shock absorbers.

A brand new genuine steering rack, radiator and alternator were fitted.

Initial impressions of the engine swap are entirely positive, except power increase compared to the old not being as much as hoped for, but with significantly improved fuel consumption compared to my old 190,000 km engine with possibly the original fuel filter in place.

Acceleration is improved somewhat, but would greatly benefit from a set of HM extractors which I have not been able to procure despite looking fervently for a set to appear second hand on Ebay etc for a long time.

The very low km 380 engine and 3 new genuine engine/transmission mounts result in a velvet smooth idle, and has cured the noticeable "thump" into reverse on cold start up.

This seems to suggest that it was worn mounts rather than possible wear in the gearbox that was causing this - good news.

My transmission was otherwise good before, and it remains so after a full flush and change to Castrol fluid.

ALL fluids(except brakes - done 4 months ago) have been changed.

I will provide more impressions once I have had a chance to drive on familiar roads.

A steering rack... can i ask what prompted that?

There were no obvious signs pointing towards replacement being needed.

Steering felt fine.

The local wheel alignment mechanic never mentioned any problems.

Mits-Fix had genuine racks for AWD available at a good price, the car was going on the hoist to have the engine out, and power steering fluid needed changing.

I just thought it was a sensible decision to have it changed @ 190,000km whilst the other work was being done.

One outer tie rod end had a tear in the rubber, so these were also changed at the same time.

The steering feels better than it ever has, which was always good as far as I could tell.

Most of the rear end of the car was replaced with new genuine control arm bushes/wheel bearings/Koni shock absorbers.

The wheel alignment done by Mits-Fix is 100%.

The above items were not a "must do" job at the time, but just part of the attempt to "future proof" the car.

As a result of last weeks comprehensive work, I am attempting to reduce the necessity of future repairs as much as possible.

If I was relying on non-specialists, without access to genuine parts, I would probably not have contemplated the above work.

Having access to Mits-Fix, and their stock of well priced genuine Mitsubishi parts, has made the above extensive work possible.

And reasonably cost effective compared with having such work done by non-specialists.

After earlier work to the front suspension, I have not much suspension work left to do, other than replacing front wheel bearings.

These are not showing any signs of wear or noises, and is a relatively easy job to be done whenever necessary in the future.

The "crowning glory" will be having my front Sachs shocks, brand new 2 years ago, replaced with custom Bilstein inserts.

Based on previous experience with fitting front Bilsteins in my then 21 year old 1990 Nissan Skyline, these will transform the ride.

That will have to wait a little while until my finances recover from last weeks spend.

That is one epic service. And yes, I can relate to getting lots of things done at once, doing items piecemeal tends to involve multiple trips to different auto specialists, a painfully time consuming process.

Did you get the heater core changed over?

No.

No heater core changeover.

If it leaks, I will put up with it as I live on the coast and the weather here rarely gets that cold.

I will "loop" the heater hoses at the firewall, and use the A/C to demist as necessary.

P.S. Whilst my car was being fixed, I was provided with a TW VRX as a loan car.

That saved me lots of mucking around trying to organise a rental car.

It even had a fully functioning toll pass.

Thank you Mits-Fix.

Mine is getting to that same stage of needing other work done on it. Just trying to prioritise what will happen first.

The window tinting is starting to separate and the front passenger tint has a long bubble in it (lifetime warranty not so lifetime, apparently. May need to involve consumer affairs, which is tiresome).
Springs and shocks were replaced at 50k or so and are starting to suggest they need doing over.
Interior door coverings showing marks and scratches.
Original floor mats looking tired.
Bonnet stone guard cracked.
Timing belt in two years time (again).

The solution to bypass the heater core is a good one. Will keep that in mind as needed.

Initial impressions of the engine swap are entirely positive, except power increase compared to the old not being as much as hoped for, but with significantly improved fuel consumption compared to my old 190,000 km engine with possibly the original fuel filter in place.
Hey Leadfoot6 just wondering was it worth doing the engine change over. Is their much of a difference in torque compared to the 3.5. I would like to do this at some stage but I would really like to know if it is worthwhile or is the original just as good. I have tried to look it up here but nobody really gives a detailed description on the 3.8 performance. Thanks in advance.

Interesting as mine is great deal quicker than my last TL AWD, to the point of V8 Hunting (in 0-90km/hr range, then I think it becomes stock TL AWD ECU limited) , mine is also scheduled for ecu remap by TME motor sport. I may get a dynograph, to me dyno sheets don't mean much, but will try to post if I get it. I probably have a higher km 3.8 with Dr Johns cams, (rough idle by 3.8 standards), and the HM headers. Exhaust is still very quiet. Engine would be smoother than VN-VR V6, not much worse than recently rented on holidays VF SV6 black edition Commodore).

Mine was also run in by a work related trip from Mals in Bayswater to Newcastle. May be after the TME tune I will meet you half way between ACT and the coast....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 343guiltyspark

Initial impressions of the engine swap are entirely positive, except power increase compared to the old not being as much as hoped for, but with significantly improved fuel consumption compared to my old 190,000 km engine with possibly the original fuel filter in place.
Hey Leadfoot6 just wondering was it worth doing the engine change over. Is their much of a difference in torque compared to the 3.5. I would like to do this at some stage but I would really like to know if it is worthwhile or is the original just as good. I have tried to look it up here but nobody really gives a detailed description on the 3.8 performance. Thanks in advance.

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Most posters show untuned relying on diverse dynos a power change from 100AWDkw 3.5 to 120AWDkw just doing the swap. About a 20% gain in a very heavy but very good handling car. Manual FWD owners say the swap brings the heavy AWD closer to the fast manual FWD. Further gains seem to be from HM headers which are no longer made about 10 AWD KW, 380 intake?5-kw and going to cams and tuning. 130-140kWawd. This will not make the car a rocket but have a sporty feel to match the amazing handling.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by an observer

Mine is getting to that same stage of needing other work done on it. Just trying to prioritise what will happen first.

The solution to bypass the heater core is a good one. Will keep that in mind as needed.

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Same here. I don't use mine either, not since I bought it a few months back. I have been looking to see if "Looping" it at the fire wall and on the motor would suffice. It looks possible without stuffing around with another length of hose.

Is there an alternative to these bloody stupid seals and elbows that you might have heard about? I imagine that someone has done a mod on the heater core to alleviate the issue with the seals going. Or is the issue in terms of accessibility and replacement? (No, I haven't had the dash out -yet - ) ** Must protect the ECU **

I think its more the latter. Dash removal is long and fiddly.

Had another recurrence of window switch failure yesterday. Despite having no idea what to do, I prised open the switch mechanism between the front seats and gently eased open the plastic retaining clips.

Inside the housing it was fairly clean, though with evidence of how dirt and fluff could easily build up and block the contacts.

Each window switch depresses a metal rocker that rests loosely on a plastic cradle. Several of the metal rockers had come loose and were rolling around in the housing. With much care I carefully put each rocker back onto each cradle and reassembled the housing.

Success! The switches work again. Hoping this doesn't become a regular occurrence.

... and yet another recurrence with the front passenger switch failing. Took it out and fixed the contacts, in putting it back in one of the other contacts must have slipped out, so now one of the back window switches doesn't work, admittedly less of a problem.

As its a plug and play part, I've had enough of this and ordered a replacement off ebay.

Even though you have had some problems in this area, it is good to see that you have been able to isolate the problem to the easily swapped out center console switch block, rather than needing to pull off door trims and remove/replace window regulators - a much more difficult job.

You have provided very good trouble shooting advice which will help others later on.

How to fix the switch box....

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=iWcxwwCX6E0

That was a good video.

Thank you.

If it had been released almost exactly 2 years earlier, it would have saved me $100.

I still have the( I am assuming the then 11 year old - unless already replaced at some point) switch block that broke.

And I even have some di-electric grease in my auto electrics toolbox.

Soon, I will attempt to follow the video instructions.

Fingers crossed.

P.S. A link to the above video would be good in any of the threads dealing with TL/TW window problems.....

@an observer.....here is one thread dealing exclusively with power windows worth linking this video to:

https://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/sh...lectric+window

There will be others.

Done. Cheers,

Thanks for cross referencing the video.

Thr new afm - or is it maf? - has arrived and awaits fitting.

And yet another screw deeply embedded in a tyre meant an anticipated tyre purchase has been brought forward. Timimg was unfortunate as the re003s were on 4 for 3 special last month.

We found out they wouldnt repair the puncture saying it was too big and deep. Neither were they keen to throw the spare on as its the original and is probably a bit old. So forced to make a decision on what to do, a month or three earlier than expected.

Tyre guys tried to sell me on the turanzas, which will last much longer but are rubbish in the wet and cornering. They were the oem brand until i swapped in the first set of re002s, many years ago.

So bit the bullet and lashed out on four newies, the re003. Found them the best value and still reasonably priced.. Garage now smells of rubber.

Before my current 17"/Michelin 215/55/17 Pilot Sport 4's, I used Bridgestone 215/60/16 Re003 Potenza's for almost 3 years.

Except for slightly higher wear than what I considered ideal, I was very, very happy with the Bridgestones in every respect.

Their achillies heel was being fitted to the standard width factory alloys, which at 6" was just too narrow.

A 7" wheel size would have been ideal, and would have prevented the excess shoulder wear that meant premature replacement.

The car has a twin. Almost.

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/mang...awd/1207034116

After buying a new AFM last month to address intermittent miss and occasional stalling issues, car has of course now been running faultlessly.

Due for a service next month. Got a few weeks to decide what to do.

Another recurrence of failed power windows. Thus time was different, with nine of the control switches, or the rear switches working. Pulled out the existing control switches and reset the brass rockers on ther cradles, as several had cone loose. No change. Checked the master onoff switch. No change. Replaced it with the new switch set - yup, no change.

Thinking it might be a fuse, checked the 40a fuse under the bonnet. Looks ok.

Finally, having no idea, have booked it into the auto elec. See what he can find.

So the fuse was blown and now fixed. The windows are working again but the right rear window switch is now kaput.

Went for a drive tonight and filled it up. At least it still drives well.

Day 5144 of ownership. Situation normal. Finally had time and energy to pull apart the rear window switch that the auto electrician said had died. As we pay him by the hour, its a secondary switch to the front and he was busy, he merely duct taped it over, saying it wasn't working. Hmmm.

Figuring I have little to lose since it isn't working anyway, decide to try and pull it out to see what it wrong. I found a replacement on eBay for twenty bucks plus postage, so I know the cost of failure is pretty low.

So, lever the switch out and there is a retaining clip at the front that promptly falls into the door well. Then i have to ease the door covering off to get the clip back. Door covering goes back in place.

The switch itself is a smaller version of the master controller between the front seats. It has a plug-in connection to the cars wiring loom. I put a screwdriver through the multiple wires to stop the loom falling into the door well and ease the switch apart from the loom. It reluctantly comes apart, so I place the loom down on the switch cavity with the screwdriver holding it place, and take the switch itself into the light where i can see it clearly.

The switch is a mostly plastic affair. It looks like this.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mitsubis...53.m1438.l2649

About half way down the stalk below the switch itself that normally hides in the arm rest, there are four clips that look to hold the bottow switch contacts to the upper half of the-one piece unit the switch actually sits in. Using a fine screwdriver I ease it apart and it quickly is obvious what is wrong. The brass rocker has slipped off the contact cradle, exactly the same as the front ones eventually do. I put it back in and ease the assembly together.

The switch is still sticking. So I take it apart again and decide to spray some wd40 into it. Hey, it fixes everything, right? Wiping the excess off I reassemble and clean the switch. Success! It now works smoothly. I slide the retaining clip into the front side of the unit and gently connect the loom to the switch.

Now to test. Turn the key to on and back to accessory to power up the loom. Hit the switch and bang - it works. Up, down, up, down.

Ease the switch back into the cavity and it snaps into place. Now to finish polishing and detailing after yesterday's wash.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by an observer

After buying a new AFM last month to address intermittent miss and occasional stalling issues, car has of course now been running faultlessly.

Due for a service next month. Got a few weeks to decide what to do.

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Hi Darren,

I received your PM re:AFM part numbers.

Due to earlier problems, I still cannot seem to send PM's

https://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=107860

So here are the numbers I have from the AFM that I have been using without any problems for 2 years:

338 3617
k

E5T06071

Please let me know if I can help further.

Kind regards,

John.

All J/L/W series cars run the "338" MAF/AFM (so named because "338" is clearly visible in fairly large characters on the top plate of the unit); I'm pretty sure that 3.5l H series cars also used this model MAF but not sure whether the 3l cars did as well. KFs run a "337" MAF which is the same as the "338" except it lacks the barometric pressure sensor. "338" MAFs work fine in KFs, but "337" MAFs will raise the CEL for the missing sensor in the later cars. 3l E/F series cars used a different model MAF, also lacking the barometric pressure sensor.

Thank you both for the input.

In looking around i find there are '338' parts with a different suffix. Ie the number after 338 varies.

Will this matter?

As long as the "338" is in larger characters than any other numbers on that plate, as far as I can tell the other numbers won't make a difference. The "338" MAFs were also used in MK Tritons from about 2001 onwards, for both 4G64 and 6G72 variants I understand, so they should be reasonably easy to find.

Thank you.

Ok, afm now swapped for differently numbered part. Fitting tomorrow.

New afm swapped in. Hour long drive afterwards showed no issues. Hoping this fixes the hot idle stall issue.

Did you get a brand new part or second hand?

If new, was it genuine or aftermarket?

How much?

Thanks.

It looks new, and its looks aftermarket. Cost was $140.

It has the right part number this time, has the 338 in big letters, and is an oval shaped connector. All things i got wrong at the first attempt.

All credit to the parts place. Swapped it for the right one, no questioms asked.

$140 is not unreasonable for a brand new part with a reasonable warranty, especially if it cures the problem which I know can be so annoying, and potentially dangerous.

When the number of Nissan R31 Skylines started to become numerous as wrecks or for spare parts - and thus cheap, I stocked up on the more common sensors that were known to fail.

I had spare distributors(the Crank Angle Sensor[CAS] unit inside was prone to failure), AFMs, coils, fuel return valves, etc.

The longer I kept my Skyline(and my brother's same model) on the road, the more valuable my minor investment proved to be.

My 1990 model R31 was 26 years old when it was finally retired 3 years ago.

Hence, I have a spare known good $90 AFS(AFM) kept just in case.

Based on the above, I hope to be able to keep my 2004 TL AWD going strongly until about 2030.

Spending the money on a very low kilometre 6g75 conversion/new genuine steering rack/nearly complete front and rear end suspension overhaul, has taken that ideal a large step in the right direction.

2030? That's planning ahead. I like it.

At this stage our car is due a timing belt next year. At our current annual mileage that would give it another five years or 75000kms lifespan. At that point it be 2025 and due the next timing belt, water pump and pulleys, which I last had done at 150. At that point it would be cheaper to upgrade to the 6g75 than do all that again.

With more Magnas ending up in wreckers yards instead of being repaired, there should still be second hand parts around as well as some new ones. Some new OEM parts are getting pricey. Mitsubishi wanted $800 for a new AFM. But it would be most annoying if I had to retire the car because specific parts it needed just weren't available and couldn't figure out a workaround.

Update: car still going well in traffic with no recurrence of the stalling issue.

The long weekend was an excellent time to properly wash, polish, vacuum, and clean the interior. Looking neater.

Fulcrum changed the valve caps when it was in their shop. Now it wears their branded valve caps - how cheeky is that.

It is good to see that the fitting of a fully functional AFS/AFM has resulted in a higher level of reliability.

That was my experience also just over two years ago after putting up with the about once-a-month episode of stalling for the two years prior to that, fully cured by installing a good second hand unit.

You two are a bad influence. Just when I have finally convinced myself it’s time to get rid of mine ......

Personally, and in view of the fact that your Solara has been maintained so well, I strongly believe that you would be hard pressed to find an equivalent replacement vehicle for sensible money, even after the added cost of reconditioning your current gearbox.

But, once again, I can understand the need to help entry/exit issues.

Having said that, my 95 year old mother finds my Magna more comfortable to ride in than my brothers well maintained 2004 model Jeep Cherokee/Liberty which at standard ride height is too high for her to enter/exit comfortably.

My Magna rides on lowered VRX spec Dobinsons springs, so it is about 30-40mm lower than standard, and presents no major problems for her, even though she is suffering from extremely severe arthritis.

I hear you.

I have sourced a BA Mk II with 47000 on the clock I can own for $6k with a years rego.

As you said it’s the entry/exit issues for the wife that is my main concern. I can manage for a few years yet but she takes an age to get her legs into the footwell. On my brothers falcon the extra few inches makes a difference for her.

I really do love the Magna even if mine’s only a 2wd unlike yours and AN Observers.

I have booked the car into a specialist early next week for a definitive diagnosis. I’ve advertised it as a whole unit and to part it out this afternoon but if no one steps up over the weekend to make an offer I’m not absolutely ruling out repairing her. I’d even look at a manual conversion if the gearbox specialists say that’s a value option. Including the work done recently that would take it to ten grand which is a lot to drop on a Magna over 6 months though, I’d want to be able to drive her more than a few more years if I did the gearbox.

Also my experience is such that I do get frightened that a week after doing the box the heater core will let go lol. If I did the gear box the heater core would be the last of the ”usual suspects” I haven’t addressed. That’s probably just paranoia at this point I suppose.

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Originally Posted by Decado

I hear you.

I have sourced a BA Mk II with 47000 on the clock I can own for $6k with a years rego.

As you said it’s the entry/exit issues for the wife that is my main concern. I can manage for a few years yet but she takes an age to get her legs into the footwell. On my brothers falcon the extra few inches makes a difference for her.

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In the mid 2000's I had a few different vehicles as company cars at the used car dealerships I was working for.

At various times I had both TJ Magnas(Penrith Mitsubishi) and BA Falcons(Sinclair Ford).

I must admit that I never considered the different sizes of the door openings, but now that I am much heavier than I used to be, I am starting to notice the somewhat restricted entry/seating position of the Magna.

The actual size of the door openings is something I have not considered before, although I steered away from Falcons when ultimately deciding to buy a Magna as the seat/steering wheel relationship did not seem to suit me on the Falcon as much as it did on the Magna.

Being in the passenger seat would, of course, be a different matter.

Quote:

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Also my experience is such that I do get frightened that a week after doing the box the heater core will let go lol. If I did the gear box the heater core would be the last of the ”usual suspects” I haven’t addressed. That’s probably just paranoia at this point I suppose.

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If I was living in Queensland, at least near warmer coastal areas, I would be less inclined to worry about the heater core leaking.

A "shortcut" fix is to not rip everything apart, but merely modify the coolant hose just in front of the firewall to bypass the heater core inside the cabin.

It is an easy, sensible procedure that avoids anything up to $1000 labour and is what I will be doing if/when my heater core leaks.

There are a quite large number of threads dealing with this well known heater core issue and I will point you to them if requested.

You may have already seen these, but they might help make entry/exit a bit easier.

https://www.disabilityshop.com.au/ca...l-seat-lb0340/

The mechanic that tends my car advised to move it on at 175,000ks. There are days i regret ignoring that advice.

Since then i'd had to do the radiator, thermo fan, inner and outer cv boots, windows switches and gearbox. It adds up.

But any car can develop faults and the ba mkii is no exception. Over at ford forums there is much enlightenment about known issues. The ba may need new bushes and suspension components. And presuming its the six speed auto, the zf tranny can experience what has been termed 'milkshaking', where coolant mixes with transmision fluid, turning it white and frothy, with catastrophic results.

A full rebuild is then required.

Opinions abound, but zf (who made the transmission, and later licensed it to chinese manufacturers) advised Ford they had doubts about its block casting process. Zf insisted that casting sand residual in the block was clogging the heat exchanger resulting in failure.

There is an entire industry out there doing external transmission coolers as a result.

Short story is... be aware that low mileage cars dont necessarily guarantee anything. Even the btr four speed in the mark i's can fail prematurely.

Dont get me wrong, im a big fan of the ba and bf and seriously considered one, but as leadfoot referred to, that drivers seated position has always generated controversy. It doesnt feel right for me, though many others disagree.

Anyway, on with the show....

Every car is different but I have had a fantastic run from my 02 T J Le model, bought it new, the starter wore out at 250,000K, radiator replaced at 325,000K heater pipes replaced ( big job) needing removal of Dash, Auto reconditioned 347,000K over the past three years shocks and exhaust also. Motor has never been touched except for cam seals. I cannot complain, been a very reliable car and I plan on keeping it for as long as possible. I fitted Pedders shocks three years ago, bad news, will be replacing them soon.

That's a great run from your Magna. Hopefully it keeps going for you.

Back from visiting south australia and there seem to be more magnas and 380s still on the road there. Not trashed, or failed clear coats. Just used and driven everyday.

561,000 on mine now and it's leaking oil to the point that I am checking the levels each weekend. Well, it's been leaking oil for years but now it's dripping onto the floor so it won't pass rego come October unless I can conceal it somehow because the cost to fix will be more than the value of the car. That said, at the inspection last year the oil leak was noted but as it was not dripping onto the floor it passed. Apart from that everything is going well.

Billy, that's brilliant. How fastidious have you been with oil and belt changes?

I get the oil changed twice yearly, which is about every 7500ks. The belt every 75ooo, which is due again next year at 225000. Not looking forward to paying for that.

Hi an observer, the oil I change twice a year, April and October (the car travels about 25,000km per year). The accessory belts (air con, pwr steering etc) have been changed once and the timing belt is original.

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Originally Posted by Billy Mason PI

Hi an observer, the oil I change twice a year, April and October (the car travels about 25,000km per year). The accessory belts (air con, pwr steering etc) have been changed once and the timing belt is original.

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Is it really the original timing belt, at that mileage!

That must be a record ....

If your Awd tl owner I think the best is for fully check in the company service shop. A car that has age is really needed to be taken care of.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Billy Mason PI

Hi an observer, the oil I change twice a year, April and October (the car travels about 25,000km per year). The accessory belts (air con, pwr steering etc) have been changed once and the timing belt is original.

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So if I'm to understand correctly, the timing belt is at least 10-11yrs and 450000kms overdue for a change?

I must say I'm a bit confused.. you seem to fastidiously maintain this car to near obsessive levels (which I great, don't get me wrong) , but don't change the one thing that can lunch the engine if it lets go?

Perhaps I'm missing something?

The recommended timing belt service interval is 75000kms OR every five years, whichever comes first. At 25000 a year and fifteen years old, the car would be well overdue.

I get that its an exy job and mine is due AGAIN - next year, at about 225000kms. Much as i like driving it, a lotto win or similar to fund something newer wouldn't go astray.

Another day, another service. The car just clicked over 210,000kms.

Not much to report. Changed the oil to penrite 10 40 synthetic, had the transmission fluid changed and had the front rotors machined and new pads. The rears can wait to the next service.

There is a creak in the front somewhere thats been there for ages. The rear bump stops are just about stuffed.

But overall still driving well.

The drivers side door cup is a molded plastic extrusion that sits snugly inside the door opening handle.

For some months, mine was failing and eventually cracked. I put up with no cupat all for a few months more but finally decided to get a new one.

Mitsfix sells them cheaply on ebay, the part was ordered, arrived promptly and was fitted. Looks much better and is nicer to look at.

A minor triumph of aesthetics over hard headed budgeting.

Car down to the mechanics today to check out the suspension. Its been crashing across bumps and minor road imperfections. Just doesnt drive as smoothly as it should.

So, after a drive and some time on the hoist they are recommending new shocks all round, lower control arms, bump stops and noted the power steering is starting to leak .

Ive asked tnem to quote by dividing the work into packages. Will probably get the front end done first as thats definitely the roughest. Then get the rear end done (shocks, bushes) at the next service along with a machine of the rear rotors and new pads.

Might leave the power steering a bit longer unless it starts to leak badly.

As expected the quote was frightening. About 1200 for the front and 800 for rear.

Needless to say im shopping for another quote(s). Sigh.

The story thus far ... rough riding, well loved family car crashing over small bumps and lacking rebound conteol. Basically in need of a suspension makeover. Its been a while and another quote came back as more affordable.

Today she went in new shocks, lower control arms and rear bushes. Yet to go driving. First thing tomorrow.....

MILEAGE is one of the few things that you need to check every now and then to keep your car in good condition.

Hi Janwex, welcome to the forums. Look forward to hearing about your ride.

I checked the mileage and its been 150,000kms since we'd done anything to the suspension. Little wonder it was starting to feel worn.

So, a nice little drive this morning and definite changes for the better. Body control is much more disciplined and it now glides over smaller bumps, potholes and corrugations like it should do.

She still wears the factory original 16 inch rims but now with Bridgestone re003s, rather than the Turanzas it came with. I like it this way.

I can now hear a lot more activity and movement in the suspension, which is somewhat unnerving. But in all, a worthwhile improvement.

New year, new seat covers.... the old ones were literally coming apart at the seams.

Only from supercheap, but still nice to have new things. Getting used to the colour change, from black and grey stripes to plain grey.

First world problems... !

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Originally Posted by an observer

New year, new seat covers.... the old ones were literally coming apart at the seams.

Only from supercheap, but still nice to have new things. Getting used to the colour change, from black and grey stripes to plain grey.

First world problems... !

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You could always get some new trim. It is available. IMO preferable to seat covers.

The seats are actually ok. Its the door cards that id like to replace. But something mechanical always seems to take precedence.