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I should have been a bit more explicit that the ECU reset is best done when the sensor is replaced, as doing this will hasten the fuel trim readjustment especially if the trims have been badly skewed by a failed sensor. In the absence of a reset at time of replacement, a week or so's running in a normal suburban environment should have all the trims readjusted.
Hi guys, after a bit more investigation I have figured that the problem is one of a slow idle.
The car seems to now stall continuously when the air conditioner is on (and the idle drops as a result). Also, it doesn't seem to stall when in park or neutral (i.e. when the revs are a little higher), only in drive or reverse. A bit like the old school cars when you had the lights, wipers and heater/air-con going all at once.....the revs dropped quite a bit.
I took the car to Mistsubishi a while ago and they said they adjusted the idle, but I don't know what they did exactly....
So how do I increase the idle, do I use the screw (not sure where this is as yet), or just reset the ECU?? I am seeing another mechanic on Monday so hopefully he has some idea.
Cheers
Dont touch the screw, the TCU will automatically adjust any tweaking you do and back it again.
The TPS governs the idle speed via air/fuel mixture. If you believe the idle is low then TPS can be the culprit.
They get sticky with gunk sometimes or the spring can wear.
As far as idle goes, it should be around the 1100-1200 mark on the dash tacho when cold and then settle to about 600-800 after warm up.
Very difficult to know the true RPM because the tacho is not very precise at that end of the dial but just as a rule of thumb it usually looks like its around 1200 at cold start dropping to 700 ish.
If it is the TPS then it may be intermittently sticking.
But you know, lots of possible reasons for die-out, fuel delivery, ignition and engine related.
I recommend you take it to Mal if possible for a diagnosis. He knows these cars.
The ECU should be using the idle speed control valve to account for the load change of the A/C on/off. When was the last time the throttle body, and especially the ISC, was given a good clean? The ISC stepper motor coils can also be checked for resistance with a multimeter in case one of them has failed.
The idle air bleed screw should only ever be adjusted when the engine is fully warmed up and the ECU is forced into the correct adjustment mode - with J or later cars this requires a MUT unit or an Evoscan logging setup. In this ECU mode the screw should be adjusted so that the engine is idling at a target of 700rpm.
:doh: why did I write TPS in my post above? I actually meant the ISC of course.
I went through a bit of trouble with mine a while back and ended up having to clean the throttle body and replace the ISC, so I dont exoect to get those two terms mixed up.
Brain fade.
Anyhow WytWun has it covered.
To avoid adding to the confusion, are you able to go to the previous post within 24 hours and change it to the correct abbreviation?Quote:
Originally Posted by KWAWD
Or is the "edit" function not working for you?
Some say they are not able to "edit" since the forum upgrade a few months ago, but I can without any trouble.
If not, consider deleting the post and start it again?
Thanks.
I don't know why, but there is much incorrect "jargon" and incorrect abbreviations used in these threads.
It does not make troubleshooting any easier.
An effort to minimise confusion will be appreciated by most.
Quote:
Originally Posted by xenoAWD
Follow this thread:Quote:
Originally Posted by KWAWD
https://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/sh...=107439&page=1
from start to finish.....it's only 3 pages, which demonstrates that adjusting the idle screw provides the desired result where idle was too high.
I don't see why it would not work with a low idle.....provided that an incorrect idle setting is the cause of your problem.
For a long while I thought that an incorrect idle setting might have been my problem of stalling as we have discussed, but ultimately it turned out to be a failing AFM(air flow meter).
I never made a single attempt to change my idle setting in any way.....just thought about it and read every thread related to it.
Only the AFM change cured the problem.
Here is a link to an image showing the idle screw at the top of the throttle body:
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=m...JV0HKcLzRjzmM:
No edit or delete buttons.Quote:
Originally Posted by leadfoot6
I lost the ability to edit my own posts a while back, which is unfortunate because I always seem to make a typo that I cant see until 2 seconds after I've actually posted!
Thanks for the reply and confirming the lack of ability to edit/delete.
We have recently been told that an upgrade or change of server(can't remember exactly which) has taken place.
This forum has gone backwards since then, making it much less "user friendly".
Earlier today I attempted to upload a photo' hoping that I could help a fellow member.
I have not had any problems doing this in the past, but was not able to do so today.
Who is responsible for this worsening situation?
Does any member of the Administration/Moderator team like to "take ownership" of this, and offer some concrete and positive solutions?
Thanks guys. I'll speak to the mechanic tomorrow and see if he has any knowledge of this ISC / screw.
If not, perhaps back to Mitsubishi? Otherwise "Mal" as KWAWD suggests - who and where is Mal??