just wondering what you experienced to make you replace the cv boots and engine mounts. tiaOriginally Posted by TWaGn
just wondering what you experienced to make you replace the cv boots and engine mounts. tia
The 380 conversion job was completed on Thursday PM @ Mits-Fix, and I am now home again(Kiama NSW).
All work completed was done perfectly, although I did overload them with a very big list of things to do that resulted in a few minor items not finished in time.
I will catch up with these items later.
The rear suspension received significant renewal/replacement work, including Koni Red shock absorbers.
A brand new genuine steering rack, radiator and alternator were fitted.
Initial impressions of the engine swap are entirely positive, except power increase compared to the old not being as much as hoped for, but with significantly improved fuel consumption compared to my old 190,000 km engine with possibly the original fuel filter in place.
Acceleration is improved somewhat, but would greatly benefit from a set of HM extractors which I have not been able to procure despite looking fervently for a set to appear second hand on Ebay etc for a long time.
The very low km 380 engine and 3 new genuine engine/transmission mounts result in a velvet smooth idle, and has cured the noticeable "thump" into reverse on cold start up.
This seems to suggest that it was worn mounts rather than possible wear in the gearbox that was causing this - good news.
My transmission was otherwise good before, and it remains so after a full flush and change to Castrol fluid.
ALL fluids(except brakes - done 4 months ago) have been changed.
I will provide more impressions once I have had a chance to drive on familiar roads.
Last edited by leadfoot6; 25-11-2018 at 04:35 PM.
A steering rack... can i ask what prompted that?
Lamenting the loss of Australian manufacturing.
1998 - 2005 Mirage - still missed
2005 - TL AWD Magna still paying for upkeep
Pre `98 - non Mitsis including two Fords, a Toyota and a Daihatsu
There were no obvious signs pointing towards replacement being needed.
Steering felt fine.
The local wheel alignment mechanic never mentioned any problems.
Mits-Fix had genuine racks for AWD available at a good price, the car was going on the hoist to have the engine out, and power steering fluid needed changing.
I just thought it was a sensible decision to have it changed @ 190,000km whilst the other work was being done.
One outer tie rod end had a tear in the rubber, so these were also changed at the same time.
The steering feels better than it ever has, which was always good as far as I could tell.
Most of the rear end of the car was replaced with new genuine control arm bushes/wheel bearings/Koni shock absorbers.
The wheel alignment done by Mits-Fix is 100%.
The above items were not a "must do" job at the time, but just part of the attempt to "future proof" the car.
As a result of last weeks comprehensive work, I am attempting to reduce the necessity of future repairs as much as possible.
If I was relying on non-specialists, without access to genuine parts, I would probably not have contemplated the above work.
Having access to Mits-Fix, and their stock of well priced genuine Mitsubishi parts, has made the above extensive work possible.
And reasonably cost effective compared with having such work done by non-specialists.
After earlier work to the front suspension, I have not much suspension work left to do, other than replacing front wheel bearings.
These are not showing any signs of wear or noises, and is a relatively easy job to be done whenever necessary in the future.
The "crowning glory" will be having my front Sachs shocks, brand new 2 years ago, replaced with custom Bilstein inserts.
Based on previous experience with fitting front Bilsteins in my then 21 year old 1990 Nissan Skyline, these will transform the ride.
That will have to wait a little while until my finances recover from last weeks spend.
Last edited by leadfoot6; 26-11-2018 at 06:41 AM.
That is one epic service. And yes, I can relate to getting lots of things done at once, doing items piecemeal tends to involve multiple trips to different auto specialists, a painfully time consuming process.
Did you get the heater core changed over?
Lamenting the loss of Australian manufacturing.
1998 - 2005 Mirage - still missed
2005 - TL AWD Magna still paying for upkeep
Pre `98 - non Mitsis including two Fords, a Toyota and a Daihatsu
No.
No heater core changeover.
If it leaks, I will put up with it as I live on the coast and the weather here rarely gets that cold.
I will "loop" the heater hoses at the firewall, and use the A/C to demist as necessary.
P.S. Whilst my car was being fixed, I was provided with a TW VRX as a loan car.
That saved me lots of mucking around trying to organise a rental car.
It even had a fully functioning toll pass.
Thank you Mits-Fix.
Last edited by leadfoot6; 27-11-2018 at 04:20 AM.
Mine is getting to that same stage of needing other work done on it. Just trying to prioritise what will happen first.
The window tinting is starting to separate and the front passenger tint has a long bubble in it (lifetime warranty not so lifetime, apparently. May need to involve consumer affairs, which is tiresome).
Springs and shocks were replaced at 50k or so and are starting to suggest they need doing over.
Interior door coverings showing marks and scratches.
Original floor mats looking tired.
Bonnet stone guard cracked.
Timing belt in two years time (again).
The solution to bypass the heater core is a good one. Will keep that in mind as needed.
Lamenting the loss of Australian manufacturing.
1998 - 2005 Mirage - still missed
2005 - TL AWD Magna still paying for upkeep
Pre `98 - non Mitsis including two Fords, a Toyota and a Daihatsu
Initial impressions of the engine swap are entirely positive, except power increase compared to the old not being as much as hoped for, but with significantly improved fuel consumption compared to my old 190,000 km engine with possibly the original fuel filter in place.
Hey Leadfoot6 just wondering was it worth doing the engine change over. Is their much of a difference in torque compared to the 3.5. I would like to do this at some stage but I would really like to know if it is worthwhile or is the original just as good. I have tried to look it up here but nobody really gives a detailed description on the 3.8 performance. Thanks in advance.
Interesting as mine is great deal quicker than my last TL AWD, to the point of V8 Hunting (in 0-90km/hr range, then I think it becomes stock TL AWD ECU limited) , mine is also scheduled for ecu remap by TME motor sport. I may get a dynograph, to me dyno sheets don't mean much, but will try to post if I get it. I probably have a higher km 3.8 with Dr Johns cams, (rough idle by 3.8 standards), and the HM headers. Exhaust is still very quiet. Engine would be smoother than VN-VR V6, not much worse than recently rented on holidays VF SV6 black edition Commodore).
Mine was also run in by a work related trip from Mals in Bayswater to Newcastle. May be after the TME tune I will meet you half way between ACT and the coast....
Most posters show untuned relying on diverse dynos a power change from 100AWDkw 3.5 to 120AWDkw just doing the swap. About a 20% gain in a very heavy but very good handling car. Manual FWD owners say the swap brings the heavy AWD closer to the fast manual FWD. Further gains seem to be from HM headers which are no longer made about 10 AWD KW, 380 intake?5-kw and going to cams and tuning. 130-140kWawd. This will not make the car a rocket but have a sporty feel to match the amazing handling.
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