AWD stalling at idle

[Stiffman]

Hi everyone,
I know this a bit of an old post, but I'm hoping people don't mind me resurrecting it, as I'm having the exact same issue as described here.

I have a 2004 AWD Verada, and last summer I started having issues with it stalling and carrying on at lights, or as I take off from lights / my house.

Idle seems to sit just a hair above 500 rpm, which seems a bit on the slow side when compared to what others have mentioned it should be.

I did check the idle control motor when i first began having issues, and it seemed to test OK with a multi-meter.

I've had the throttle body cleaned the last time I had it serviced, but that didn't seem to help either.

I'm guessing It's leading me to the Air Flow Meter being the next possible culprit.

A quick question, I'm guessing the AFM from a standard magna is going to be the same unit. Is that correct?

I'm going to get rid of this car in the near future, and it would be nice to be able to sell it without issues (or without this issue at least). It's been a good car, and it would be a shame to have to sell it for basically scrap, as I couldn't in good concision sell it to someone to drive away in it's current shape.

[WytWun]

I have a 2004 AWD Verada, and last summer I started having issues with it stalling and carrying on at lights, or as I take off from lights / my house.

Idle seems to sit just a hair above 500 rpm, which seems a bit on the slow side when compared to what others have mentioned it should be.

How are you determining the revs? The graticule markings on the tacho are in 200rpm increments, even the 2 below 1000rpm.

When accurately measured with the A/C off, the idle should be 700rpm in neutral and 625rpm in gear at normal operating temps.

A quick question, I'm guessing the AFM from a standard magna is going to be the same unit. Is that correct?

As far as I'm aware all H, J, L and W series 3.5s use the same MAF - just make sure it has the same number (338) on the top plate as yours.

[Stiffman]

How are you determining the revs? The graticule markings on the tacho are in 200rpm increments, even the 2 below 1000rpm.

When accurately measured with the A/C off, the idle should be 700rpm in neutral and 625rpm in gear at normal operating temps.



As far as I'm aware all H, J, L and W series 3.5s use the same MAF - just make sure it has the same number (338) on the top plate as yours.

Ah, I was just going off the tacho in the car. For some reason I thought the marks under 1k were 750 & 500, so it's reading a hair over the 600 line in gear at lights, which puts it on task, so i guess low RPM probably isn't the issue.

I'll probably grab a MAF sensor if I can find a second hand one at a reasonable price.

[Oilybastard]

Hi Stiffman,

I have a TJ Veradah GTV which I purchased 2 years ago from original owner.... tidy example with 200k on it now. It too has had this hesitation or cutting out usually when throttling on from the lights...it would idle perfectly but chug every now and then when moving off. Quite a rare event but very alarming...and it would always recover and move off. It has also had some jerks at cruising speed in the country..just have a millisecond coniption and recover...puts the wind up me still although these are very brief flame outs.. Last night though it became a real problem and stalled on me repeatedly. Last night was a cold wet night. I had the foglights on as well as headlights ( didn't realise it at the time) and was running the a/c to defrost.. The GTV has a massive blaupunkt navigation system as standard... that probably sucks amps as well.... So it began by running very rough from moving off and eventually just stalled out repeatedly..... idling strongly but flame out as soon as drive was selected. Eventually when I got home I tried running the engine and progressively loading it up electrically by turning on lights etc. The engine ran rougher the more current was switched. So for my vehicle it seems to be linked to voltage drop... I haven't used it today but I am predicting all will be fine until I replicate the circumstances of last night.... otherwise it is a great car. Fuel consumption at 115 can be 8.9 L/100 in perfect conditions up to 10L/100 into a wind. Obviously there is an issue related to ignition - electricals. insufficient voltage to the ignition system...or failing ignition system. could even be something to do with earthing. Anyway I will investigate and probably disconnect the ancient navigation computer as a start.