WIP DIY: Modifying Ralliart dials for analogue dash.
Hi all.
Well I picked up a Ralliart dash off ebay the other week, with the intention of doing whatever it was possible to make it work in my analogue dash. I own a 97' TF.
Thought I'd just share the results and do a little 'how-to' and what to do for those a little frightened to spend $100-$200 (I payed $140) on the dash, only to cut it into pieces. As far as I know no one has undertaken this, so I think it would be good to give a little guidance. I did this yesterday afternoon while watching the V8's. Its not too difficult if you're careful!
I will post pictures tomorrow night, my phone is playing up, so I need some time to get them up. I'll just edit the original post and whack the pics in there.
Tools required:
Stanley knife, pencil, ruler, balls.
Time required:
Took me an hour to a decent job.
Other requirements:
You need your old dials.
Process:
1. First remove your dash from the car. You undo the screws on the plastic cover (up the top of it). Then put the steering wheel down as far as you can go. Carefully pull the plastic cover out slightly, and then take out the cords going to speed limit adjuster and dash lights. Remove Cover. Then carefully pull on the dash, it should unclip. You then need to take out the cordcoming from the top, then its free. Image of dash out of car.
And yes, I know te revs are scewed. The needles aren't perfect from my attempt at EL dials. Thats why getting configured!
2. Get to dials. Take off clear cover by undoing screws and pressing in the clips. Then remove the black cover by pressing in clips. You will now see the internals of the dash, as well as noticing the dials are individual pieces, held in by little clips. They are also held down with adhesive. You will need to remove the needles. Make sure to note the position of the fuel needle. You can do this by carefully by trying to lever them a bit with a screwdriver or something, and then pulling them off. I just pulled them off. Be careful as they are on their pretty tight, you wouldn't want to break them. (You WILL need to get a dash configuartion after this project. The needles run by currents, once you remove them, it loses the current and doesn't know where it is. I will outline a temporary fix later on, but it is in your best interests to get this configured by a professional). Once the needles are off, carefully take out the four dials. Try to leave as much adhesive on the dash (where the dials were) as possible, it will come in handy later. Picture below is what ralliart dials will look like when face plate removed. Only difference is that your old one will still have black plastic bits for gears etc, as its not a one piece affair.
3. Remove Ralliart dials in the same fashion outlined in step two. When you remove them, you'll find the dials are one piece. Don't worry, this is where the real fun begins!!
4. You will need to trace the pattern of your old dials, including holes, onto the front face of the Ralliart dials. Lightly pencil the trace in. Once done, cut a rough square around them all, there is no need to cut exactly along the trace just yet (or even at the end for that matter, unless you want to cut around the curve WITHOUT ****ing it up). Fine cutting to trim them will come later. Be careful your rough square doesn't invade any of the dials. Also, the plastic used is quite tough, so do this on a cutting board or something, and really dig in hard with the knife. Watch your fingers.
5. Now you need to cut the holes for the clips, and the two holes to see your odometers. cut the clip holes first, by digging a hole into the trace with your knife, then lightly shave the hole back by digging the knife into the hole and twirling it around. Then, when you think you've got it, put the dials in one by one. If your hole isn't good enough, and your dials doesn't stay, don't worry. Trial and error, and a little nerve will get you through. Put the dials over the clips, and press down on the edges of the holes with your knife until it clips in enough to stay. Make sure you use the adhesive your left to your advantage. Once they fit in, carefully use a ruler and cut the holes for your odometers. If its not perfectly square, don't worry, mine isn't either. This was the hardest part of the whole process. You'll barely notice, and I have an idea to fix this anyway, more on that later.
6. Now once everything fits and you can see your odo's perfectly, fine trimming to make them fit with the black cover comes to play. Cut close to the edges, but not so close that you could slip and ruin it. Don't worry, because once you put the black cover on, no one will know the dodgy cutting job that lies beneath!
7. Put on the black cover, and admire. If it looks genuine, and you love it, then you're 90% complete. Whack the dash bak in the car, without putting on clear cover, or outer black cover (first one you removed). Switch on the car (engine on), and put the needles back into their approppriate spots. Although this will be pretty much right, and make your needles work sthey did, your speedo might be a little slow to react, and your fuel may be out just a touch. Its not too much to worry about, but do get it configured, I'm getting mine done late this week. Then quickly drive around the block, checking all dials work approximately as they should. Then whack the covers back on and VOILA, you're done!
Mine turned out great! I intend to fabricate some mini alloy rectangles to fit around the odo holes, to hide the imperfections, and give it a good look. I will eventually purchase the alloy dash rings slyts6 makes, to round it off!
Hope this helps anyone who might be thinking about doing such a modifcation. It isn't as daunting as it may seem!
As it stands now, I now have a perfectly good digital dash with 44,xxx kms on the clock (no dials) that I'll never use. You will see it in For Sale section soon.
Thanks everyone!
Daniel
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RALLI////ART#257
AMC\\\/// QMD R I P Steve Irwin 1962 - 2006
Originally Posted by Meh
but original post needs pics, cant be a diy without em 
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