New Front Wheel Bearings? During Rotor & Pad Change.

[Billy22Bob]

My 1995 TS 2.6 EFI Sedan is up for new rotors and pads. 120,000 kms

Just wondering if its a good idea to change bearings at the same time I do my rotors and pads - or simply repack them.
Keeping in mind - once you're into the job - you don't want to order and wait for bearings.
Fleabay has them for ~120 a set - a little exxie.

PS - Still investigating but I think I have to change a CV boot as well.....= + lower ball joints?

Starts to turn into a major job doesn't it.

[MadMax]

Sounds like you have a rear wheel drive background.

I used to own a 1995 TS 2.6 EFI Sedan, DIY all the way.

Wheel bearings are an integral part of the hub, can't be replaced easily without a press, or repacked. They are not disturbed in a rotor and pad change.

Good news though, the TS wheel bearings and CV boots and steering rack boots should go for about 220,000 km, unless you see a split CV boot. Same for ball joints. Last a long time if the bnoots aren't spit.

Check the wheel bearings for play and the CV boots for splits before you buy those bits.

It only turns into a major job if you try to do everything at once. Why not do the discs and pads, and check all the other bits?

[Billy22Bob]

Great news - I think/hope
Mech when changing tyres said I had a dud CV boot - just gotta confirm which side and which inner/outer.
I suspect Passenger side (RHD)

[MadMax]

It will be an outer boot.
The other side will be ready to let go too.

Options: ( Requires pulling the driveshafts off the car.)

1. Just buy the boot kits, 4 of them, and DIY.
2. Replace both drive shafts.
3. Ask your mechanic for options.

[Billy22Bob]

to be clear....
1) buy boots x 4 = inners and outers left and right
2) Remove drive shafts both sides.
3) Replace boots. Not sure this requires dissembling the shaft further or if the boots can be forced over the various components
4) Reinstall (replace) drive shafts.

PS - After doing the job....what options am "Ask your mechanic for options" about??

[MadMax]

to be clear....
1) buy boots x 4 = inners and outers left and right
2) Remove drive shafts both sides.
3) Replace boots. Not sure this requires dissembling the shaft further or if the boots can be forced over the various components
4) Reinstall (replace) drive shafts.

PS - After doing the job....what options am "Ask your mechanic for options" about??

Drive shafts need full disassembly to replace boots.

3) Above: Once off the car, unclip the inner boot, and the inner joint housing slides off.
The inner joint is then removed. It is held onto the shaft by a circlip, so you need circlip pliers.
The inner boot then comes off.
Unclip the rubber outer boot joint. Remove the boot off the far end of the shaft.
The outer joint cannot be removed off the shaft.
Clean both inner and outer joints and their housings with solvent.
Examine joints for damage.
If OK reassemble in reverse using the new boots, grease and clips supplied in the boot kits.
If joints are dirt damaged, replace with a new or recon drive shaft.

Google for youtube videos for the process.

If you are getting a mechanic to do this, ask him for the easiest and/or cheapest options. A mechanic would probably use recon or new shafts to save time.

BOOTS - WARNING! if you buy from a dealer, look at each boot carefully before paying. If they are thick rubber, dull in appearance, and show surface cracks, reject them.
I bought boots like that - probably very old stock - and they lasted 6 months. Did a lot of swearing redoing that job.
After market boots are thinner, black and shiny, cheaper, and last longer.


*

[fuel]

I've come to the conclusion that doing individual boots (especially the outer boot where the inner boot and CV joint has to come apart anyway) is just not worth the messy hassle for the sake of a few bucks. Go to any Pick a Part style wrecker where you'll find 20+ TR/TS Magnas to choose from and pull a whole axle with good boots and that appears to have good joints (ie not loose, notchy or clicky) and just swap the whole shaft over. Job done without the mess.

[magna buff]

to replace the Front Wheel Bearings needs a puller or press

there is an exploded view on page 193 of the no 263 gregories repair manual

from 2nd gen forum 2010
https://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=83780