93 TR wagon V6 timing gear removal

[Greg68]

Could anyone help me please?
i am trying to get the timing gear off the crank shaft of my motor, none of the pullers i have can get in behind the gear to gain a hold. Is there a specific tool (Mitsubishi) for this job? or a neat trick that i just don't know about? Cheers

[GQshorty]

A can of WD40 and a small hammer to tap the face of the gear to help the penetration.

[Greg68]

I've tried the WD40 and gentle taps onto the gear, no luck. I cannot get a puller behind the gear as it is hard up against the oil pump. I am very hesitant to try prying it off with the likes of a flat blade screwdriver, there is a flange on the inward side of the gear and some gentle prying shows that I will damage that flange with any force.

[MadMax]

The gear is a tight but sliding fit on the crankshaft. Under ideal conditions, it just slides off with a gentle pull. A puller should not be needed.
If there has been any water onto it though, it will be rusted on. Keep going with the WD40, and gentle prying with screwdrivers. Some heat on it may help, but remember WD40 needs to dry off first as it burns.

If you are doing the cam belt, removal of the cam belt drive gear is not needed. Why are you trying to get it off?

[Greg68]

Ha ha, well it started with the need for a new water pump which turned into a leaky power steering pump, new belts including timing belt and a far amount of oil which looks as if it is the crank seal. i thought i might as well go there and see what i see since it's all apart.
thanks for the advice on the WD40 and heat. I will persevere

[MadMax]

Did this job about 4 years ago, couple of pointers:

The flange behind the gear is to keep the belt aligned on the gear, if you bend it just straighten it out afterwards. So go ahead with the screwdrivers.

Oil leak - have a look at the seal before you pull it out, mine was leaking because the last owner had hammered it in and turned the lip of the seal over. The crank actually has a stepped section just before the seal seats down properly and the lip will be turned by that. The manual shows a sleeve needs to be used to stop this, but I just applied finger pressure to the seal while pushing the lip gently over that last small ledge with a tiny screwdriver. Seal was seated with just finger pressure and no sealant in my case.

I didn't need to do the water pump or cam shaft seals so no help there. Not too bad for a TS at 200,000 km though.

If your water pump has been leaking down onto the crank gear it might explain why it is hard to get off.

[Greg68]

thanks for the pointers MadMax. i managed to get it off tonight though in the struggle i broke off some of the flange. i lost about 2cm worth, have you ever had a situation where you had to run a damaged gear?. i would hate to get it all back together and have the timing belt migrate or get thrown.
you are spot on about the water pump. i had a bit of rust to contend with but in the end i did not use heat and the WD40 and tapping worked, thanks GQshorty. this car has been sitting for awhile since the water pump went.
this is my first time posting and i really appreciate the forum and the advice. it is great that everyone is willing to help. Cheers

[MadMax]

Whoops! Is the flange part of the gear? I thought it was a separate piece, but like I said, it was a while ago that I did this job.
New gear needed I think. Not safe to run it with a chunk missing.

[GQshorty]

Post up a picture of the gear if you can

[magna buff]

stupid repair manuall gives a picture of the gear and the flange but little information
really dumb book