Suspension Options.

[Lugo]

Apparently from the research I've done the drop measurements by King are based off a standard Magna, so with the VRX's already slightly lower suspension, I'm to expect a 15-20mm drop from SP's and 30-35mm drop from the Low's, which seems to match up with what you guys have been saying.

I'm no expert when it comes to things like toe and camber so I think I'll just let my mechanic align it back to standard when its fitted, then perhaps make a few minor adjustments when I've got a better understanding of what each adjustment will do, and how it will affect the car in comparison to how it drives stock.

I've still got a week or so to wait until I order the suspension anyway, so I'll use that time to hopefully do a little actual comparing thanks to the offers made by a couple of members and make a definitely choice from there, but at the moment the King Low's seem to be the suitable choice, which just leaves me with shockers to decide on, but I'm already pretty settled on what I want there.

[Phonic]

Wheel alignment is more a driver/road thing than car specific. Also remember every tyre is different so what works with one tyre will not necessarily work with another. More km on twisty road + sporty driver = needs more neg camber and possibly up to 2-3mm toe out if no adjustment for more caster. Mostly straight roads + steady driver = 0 neg camber and 0 toe.

Most commonly if you want good tyre wear/life then 0.7-0.9 deg neg front and 0 neg rear, and zero toe front and rear will suit for general driving. Personally I don't like toe in. Some reckon there is better braking stability but I've never felt it, cross wind stability is better though with up to 1mm toe in. If you drive with an oversteery style then toe in can help slow rear end slides on wet roads.

For faster drivers on twisty roads you want up around 1.5 neg front and zero toe. If wearing outer shoulders add toe out, up to 3mm. At rear it depends if you like a car to oversteer. If just want minimal understeer then about 0.7-0.9 deg neg rear and zero toe, but if you like oversteer add toe out. THIS CAN BE DANGEROUS ON WET ROADS OR VERY HIGH SPEED DRY CORNERS as the car can very quickly flick into oversteer so is best reserved for track days. Particularly if your style is to lift off into corners rather then drive into them.

Cheers,
Alan

I probably did drive a little more aggressively in cornering then some, but regardless of the tyres I ran (always 225/45/17s) I always had outer edge tyre scrub with the factory alignment and Pedders springs that sat 30mm lower then factory. By the time I sold the car I had the front camber set to -1.0 Deg with factory toe settings and a rear 22mm adjustable sway set to the hardest setting with rear alignment set to factory too. For my driving style this was a massive improvement over stock. The dead spot near centre was no longer evident and turn in was sharp, very little understeer ever. Driven smoothly it never had snap oversteer, if it did it was always progressive and predictable.

It actually had a fairlly higher grip threshold then my Clubsport (stock suspension), just didn't ride anywhere near as smoothly (compromise I guess).