Third Gen Common faults thread

[race5l]

Would it be a good idea to have a sticky thread for common issues and cures to save alot of searching?

Issues like:

-Stuttering auto
1. Change filter and use genuine transmission fluid
2. Reset transmission and ecu by disconnecting negative on battery for 30 minutes
3. Follow the Auto Trans Initial Learning procedure. (LINK)

-Knocks in front suspension
Possibly bearing top plates, shocks or rose joints on swaybar

-Knocking in engine when cold, which quitens when warm
Sticky lifter.
1. Added Wynns 'Engine Flush', let idle (idle ONLY) for 20-25 mins.
2. Drain oil.
3. Fill up again using Penrite HPR10.
4. Added Wynn's 'Supreme' engine treatment.


-Auto shifter not moving freely
Most likely cause.

-Washer bottle plastics deteriorating
$125 replacement at Mitsubishi, less at wrecker

-Bulbs in dash blowing, mainly D on auto display
$2 bulb or grab from wrecker, requires instrument panel removal

-Heavy engine vibration, engine movement
Check all 4 engine/box mounts for signs of sagging and cracking. Will need long reach 17mm socket to undo drivers side upper.

-Front bar squeaks
Metal support brackets worn, more common in fog light models due to housing.

-Sticky accelerator pedal
Throttle body issue, clean and adjust

-Wind noise in upper doors/door glass
Door seals worn and require replacement

-Paint coming off wiper stalks
Undo nuts, mark position of blade on screen with masking tape and remove from car
Remove wiper blades
Sand and respray
Reinstall as per masking tape position

-Rattles from parcel shelf/ rear window
Place small pieces of foam underneath shelf via holes under tray in boot

-Fuel Sender unit not working
(LINK)

-Slow power windows
Window runners are dry and dont have enough grease. Solution is to take apart door and re lubricate with lithium-based grease.
Images on how to remove the door trim and what to grease.
https://imgur.com/c1akg
https://imgur.com/62xe5


-Indicator Stalk not indicating
-Sagging hoodlining
-Wave spring in tiptronic auto boxes breaking, meaning gearbox rebuild or replace

DIY LINKS
Short Shifter By Cummins Apr 2005

- EL Guage installation guide By Magtech 26 Jan 2007

- Parabolics Installation guide. By Nexus 29 Feb 2007

- Throttle Body Coolant By-pass Guide By Magtech 3 Mar 2007

- Handbrake adjustment (at handbrake) By Satan 4 Apr 2007

- Air/Fuel Ratio Meter By Magtech Apr 2007

- Modifying Ralliart dials for analogue dash By Magnatised 11 May 2007

- 2nd Gen Remote Central Locking By Yann89 26 June 2007

- Verada Door Courtesy Lights By Gas_Hed 21 September 2007

- 3rd gen fuel sender unit replacement By millert85 21 September 2007

- Clear indicators in one piece parabolics By kj.ei 24 September 2007

- V6 Cam removal tool By magna buff October 1 2007

- DIY: TJ boot lid conversion from TE/TF/TH By Nexus January 11 2008

- DIY: Climate Control Globe Change in 3rd Gen By Lugo March 18 2008

- DIY: Front End Removal By DAM-088 November 6 2008

- DIY: Walbro 255Lph Fuel Pump Install By EZ Boy April 11th 2009

How To: KE/KF Xi entry to programming mode (differs to KE/KF Ei).
https://img855.imageshack.us/img855/6...limage148o.jpg

[scorcher93]

I like this.

Remember half those issues are just common faults with cars of this age. Paint will fade, incandescent bulbs will blow.

But for me, the wiper arm paint coming off, I just unbolted mine (see workshop manual) and sprayed black spray paint on it (removed wiper blade first). If that doesn't work, I'll just repaint it

I haven't had issues with my washer bottle. But it's easy enough to go to a wreckers and grab one. $20 tops.

The most common blowing bulb in the dash is the "D" light because it's been illuminated for 99% of it's life. If it blows, swap it with any of the other lights. P and L are common.

[race5l]

Yeah, most are common, but in other cars, the same scenario above may mean a different issue. For example, a front end knock on bumps in a magna is 90% going to be a dead shock, whereas in a Commodore of the same age it will 90% be a link pin (bushed rod between swaybar and strut).

[Woob]

VRXs has an evil habit of their front bar squeaking over bumps around the fog light housing.
Wave spring in tiptronic auto boxes breaking, meaning gearbox rebuild or replace
Throttle body getting sticky, causing sticky accelerator pedal
Supercharger idler pulley wearing out... wait, that's just me :/
Door seals wearing out causing annoying wind noise

[karj]

Add that bloody irritating Y-pipe exhaust growl to the list (pretty embarassing when that echoes through an underground carpark)

[Shamous69]

In my experiences:
Tappet cover gaskets & cam seals don't have a lengthy life.
+1 for weak engine mounts
+1 for hoodlining
4 Speed auto "flaring" between gear changes

I used to have problems with always having to adjust the handbrake in my TF.. BUT now that I look back, I think it may have been too many handbrakies when I was younger .
Otherwise my 3rd gens have by far exceeded my expectations of them.

[race5l]

Added a few. Wasnt sure if serious Karj so didnt enter .

-Y pipe growl
Install larger aftermarked stereo with subs

[HaydenVRX]

Rattles from parcel shelf/ rear window.. pissing me off and have no idea how to fix.

[karj]

Added a few. Wasnt sure if serious Karj so didnt enter .

-Y pipe growl
Install larger aftermarked stereo with subs

That's one solution!

[vp920b]

The centre console around auto trans, easy to pop out. After fixing my hand brake lever, it is hard to put it back into place and now it's popped out. Will fix that on weekends.

Also the handbrake did not work properly last time(wont lock even on full strength on hand brake lever). In the end change brake disc and will do the pads on weekends.

Knocking yes it's still there even though already changing oil. Is there any additives that can reduce this?

Thanks